LOBSTER

This pattern was requested by my daughter when she ask one similar on the Internet.  I made it with light blue yarn because that was the color that my daughter said the one she saw on the Internet.  It can be made in any color.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn: Light blue
G crochet hook
Polyester Fiberfil
Tapestry needle
10 mm safety eyes

BODY:
Rd 1: With light blue, ch 2, 3 sc in second ch from hook working around ch.  (3)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (6)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (9)
Rd 4 (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (12)
Rd 5: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (15)
Rd 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rds 7-8: sc in each sc around.  (18)
Rd 9: (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (21)
Rd 10: (sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Rds 11-18: sc in each sc around.  (24)
INSERT SAFETY EYES BETWEEN RD 6 AN RD 7 WITH 5 SC BETWEEN EYES.
Rd 19: (sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog) around.  (21)
Rd 20: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (18)
Rds 21-24: sc in each sc around.  (18)
Rd 25: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (15)
Rd 26: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rds 27-30: sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 31: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 32: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
STUFF BODY FIRMLY.
Rd 33: slip in next 4 sc, ch 1, turn; flatten tail, working through both thicknesses, sc in each sc across.  (12)
Rw 34: [(Slip st, ch 2, dc) in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, (dc, ch 2, slip st) in next dc] 3 times.  (3 scallops)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.

LEGS (MAKE 3):
Rw 1: With light blue, ch 22, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.  (21)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Pull LEGS through stitches on underside of lobster body in desired position.  Weave in ends.

CLAW ARM:
Rw 1: With light blue, ch 50, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.  (49)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Pull CLAW ARM through stitches on underside of lobster body in desired position.  Weave in ends.

CLAWS (MAKE 2):
Rw 1: With light blue and leaving long tail before the chain, ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook.  (2)
Rw 2: Ch 1, turn; 2 sc in each sc across.  (4)
Rws 3-10: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc.  (12 in Rw 10)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Fold CLAW in half and tack with tail.  Slide CLAW onto CLAW ARM.  Use tail to tack CLAW to CLAW ARM in desired position.  Use second tail (starting at tip of CLAW) to sew inside edge of folded CLAW closed.  Repeat for second CLAW.  Weave in ends.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (September 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

MARTH (FIRE EMBLEM)

This is an adaptation of my seamless doll in a more masculine form.  This doll was a request from a co-worker for her son.  Marth is a fictional character from the Fire Emblem series, developed by Intelligent Systems and owned by Nintendo.  This is my interpretation of the character.  My co-worker told me when I was making Marth that he was the beginning of a series of dolls inspired by the characters from the Fire Emblem game series for her son.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn:  Blue, white, charcoal, yellow, red, coffee brown, and black.
B and E Crochet hook
Silver Size 10 crochet cotton
Polyester fiberfill
Tapestry needle
Wooden Skewer
Silver paint
Paintbrush
Craft glue
Yellow craft foam

ARMS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With buff, 6 sc in magic ring. (6)
Rd 2: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (8)  Change to charcoal.
Rds 3-4: sc in each sc around.  (8)
Rd 5: Ch 1, change to buff, ch 2, sc in second ch from hook, change to charcoal, sc in next ch, sc in next 8 sc.  (10)
Rd 6: sc in free loops of ch-3, sc in next ch, change to buff, sc in next ch and next sc, change to charcoal, sc in next 9 sc.  (12)
Rd 7: skip next 4 sc, sc in next 8 sc.  (8)
Rd 8: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (6)
Rd 9: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (8)
Rds 10-17: sc in each sc around.  (8)  Change to buff.
Rd 18: sc in each sc around.  (8)
BEGIN STUFFING THE ARMS FIRMLY.  CONTINUE STUFFING AS YOU GO.
Rd 19: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (10)
Rds 20-22: sc in each sc around.  (10)
Finish off.

SHIRT SLEEVE (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With white, ch 15, slip st in first ch to form ring, ch 1, sc in each ch around, slip st in first sc.  (15)
Rd 2: Holding ARM inside of SHIRT SLEEVE and working both thicknesses, sc in each sc around.  (NOTE:  every other sc will be worked using 2 sc on SHIRT SLEEVE and 1 sc on ARM.  (15)
Finish off.

LEGS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With black, 8 sc in a magic ring.  (8)
Rds 2-4: sc in each sc around.  (8)
NOW WORKING IN ROWS.
Rw 5: sc in next 4 sc leaving remaining sc of Rd 4 unworked.  (4)
Rw 6: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 4 sc.  (4)
Rw 7: Ch 1, turn; sc2tog twice.  (2)
NOW WORKING IN RDS AGAIN.
Rd 8: Ch 1, sc in the side of Rows 5-7, slip st in unworked sc on Rd 4, sc in the side of Rows 5-7, sc in top of sc of Row 7.  (12)
Rd 9: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (10)
Rd 10: sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog.  (8)
BEGIN STUFFING THE LEGS FIRMLY.  CONTINUE STUFFING AS YOU GO.
Rds 11-13: sc in each sc around.  (8)
Rd 14: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc.  (9)
Rd 15: sc in each sc around.  (9)
Rd 16: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc.  (10)
Rds 17-20: sc in each sc around.  (10)
Rd 21: sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc.  (9)
Rds 22-23: sc in each sc around.  (9)
Rd 24: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc.  (10)
Rd 25: sc in each sc around.  (10)
Rd 26: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc.  (11)
Rd 27: sc in each sc around.  (11)
Rd 28: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc.  (12)
Rds 29-31: sc in each sc around.  (12)
Finish off.

BODY
Rd 1: With black, ch 2, 4 sc in second ch from hook.  (4)
Rd 2: sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc on RIGHT LEG, sc in next 2 sc on BODY, sc in next 12 sc on LEFT LEG.  (28)
Rds 3-11: sc in each sc around.  (28)
Rd 12: Slip st in next sc changing to blue, ch 1, sc in same sc as slip st, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc, slip st in first sc to join.  (26)
Rd 13: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 8 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, join.  (25)
Rd 14: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 15 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 8 sc, join.  (25)
Rd 15: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 8 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 15 sc, join.  (25)
Rd 16: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 15 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 8 sc, join.  (25)
Rd 17: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 8 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 15 sc, join.  (25)
Rd 18: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 15 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 8 sc, join.  (25)
Rd 19: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, join.  (28)
Rd 20: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, join.  (30)
Rd 21: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 10 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 18 sc, join.  (30)
Rd 22: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 10 sc, holding marked st on ARM together with next sc on BODY with right side toughing and working through both thicknesses, sc in next sc, work 1 sc in next sc on BODY together with next 2 sc on ARM, sc in next 6 sc on BODY, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 6 sc, holding marked st on ARM together with next sc on BODY with right side toughing and working through both thicknesses, sc in next sc, work 1 sc in next sc on BODY together with next 2 sc on ARM, sc in next 2 sc, join.
Rd 23: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 2 sc, working on ARM, (sc in next sc, sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next sc on BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc, working on ARM, (sc in next sc, sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next 10 on BODY, join.  (40)
Rd 24: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 23 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 15 sc, join.  (40)
Rd 25: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 2 sc, (sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next 5 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 5 sc, (sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next 10 sc, join.  (32)
Rd 26: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 8 sc, (sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next 3 sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next 3 sc, (sc2tog) 4 times, join.  (24)
Rd 27: Ch 1, turn; (sc2tog) 3 times, sc in next sc, change to yellow, sc in next 2 sc, change to blue, sc in next sc, (sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, join.  (16)  Finish off.
Rd 28: Working in back loops only, attach buff in center back sc, ch 1, (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 29: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (8)
Rd 30: sc in each sc around.  (8)
BEGIN STUFFING THE DOLL FIRMLY.  CONTINUE STUFFING AS YOU GO.
Rd 31: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc.  (12)
Rd 32: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc.  (16)
Rd 33: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (20)
Rds 34-41:       sc in each sc around.  (20)
Rd 42: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (15)
Rd 43: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (10)
Rd 44: sc2tog around.  (5)
Finish off with a long tail.  Add more stuffing to firmly achieve desired shape.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 44, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends

COLLAR:
I COMPLETED THE ROUNDS OF THE COLLAR ONCE I STUFFED BODY BEFORE FINISHING THE HEAD ROUNDS.
Rd 28: Working in front loops only, starting in first blue, attach blue, ch 1, sc in next 10 sc.  Finish off.
Rd 29: Attach yellow in front loops of first yellow sc of Rd 27, sc together same sc as attachment and first sc of Rd 28, sc again in first sc of Rd 28, sc in next 9 sc, sc together last sc of Rd 28 and next yellow sc of Rd 27.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.

EARS (MAKE 2)
Rw 1:   Ch 4, sc in second ch from hook and in next ch.  (2)
Finish off.  Sew to HEAD.

NOSE
Rw 1:   Ch 4, sc in second ch from hook and in next ch.  (2)
Rw 2:   Ch 1, turn; sc2tog.  (1)
Finish off.  Sew to FACE bunching Row 1 together.

EYES, EYEBROWS, AND MOUTH:
Embroider EYES, EYEBROWS, and MOUTH on face of DOLL.

HAIR:
Fringe blue yarn as hair on DOLL.

HEADBAND:
With yellow, ch 25.  Finish off.  Wrap HEADBAND around HEAD through HAIR, secure and hide under HAIR.

OUTFIT LOWER FRONT (MAKE 2):
Rw 1: With blue, ch 7, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.  (6)
Rws 2-14: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (6)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.
OUTER EDGE:
With yellow, sc evenly along outer edge of each piece.
INNER EDGE:
With yellow, sc evenly along inner edge of first OUTFIT LOWER FRONT, sc evenly along inner edge of second OUTFIT LOWER FRONT.

OUTFIT LOWER BACK:
Rw 1: With blue, ch 14, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.  (13)
Rws 2-14: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (13)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.
EDGING:
With yellow, sc evenly along each side of OUTFIT LOWER BACK.  Leave top and bottom edge unworked.

BELT:
Rw 1: With coffee brown, ch 32, holding ch and top of OUTFIT LOWER FRONT together and working through both thicknesses, sc in second ch from hook and in next 15 ch, holding ch and top of OUTFIT LOWER BACK together and working through both thicknesses, sc in next 15 ch.  (31)
Rw 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (31)
Finish off leaving a long tail.

BELT BUCKLE:
Rd 1: With silver size 10 cotton, 8 sc in magic ring, slip st in first sc.  (8)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew BELT BUCKLE to BELT.  Wrap BELT around waist of MARTH and sew edge together.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.

BREASTPLATE:
Rw 1: With charcoal, Ch 11, 2 sc in second ch from hook, (sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in next ch) 3 times.  (14)
Rw 2: Ch 1, turn: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc.  (16)
Rw 3: Ch 1, turn; sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc, sc2tog.  (14)
Rw 4: Ch 1, turn; sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog.  (12)
Rws 5-6: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (12)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.
EDGING:
Starting at top corner, attach yellow, ch 1, sc in next 4 rows, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.
STRAP:
With coffee brown, attach in 7th yellow sc of EDGING of BREASTPLATE, ch 22, finish off leaving a long tail.  Place BREASTPLATE on MARTH, wrap STRAP around MARTH, sew STRAP to corresponding sc on other side of BREASTPLATE.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.

SHOULDER GUARDS (MAKE 2):
Rw 1: With charcoal, ch 6, sc in second ch from hook and in each sc across.  (5)
Rws 2-5: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (5)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.
EDGING
With yellow, sc evenly around outside edge of SHOULDER GUARD with 2 sc in each corner, slip st in first sc.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.
STRAP:
Attach brown on one side, ch 10, finish off leaving a long tail.  Place SHOULDER GUARD  on MARTH, wrap STRAP around shoulder, attach STRAP to other side of SHOULDER GUARD, secure, weave in ends.

CAPE:
Rw 1: With blue, ch 33, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 7 times.  (40)
Rw 2: Ch 1, turn; (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) across.  (48)
Rw 3: Ch 1, turn; (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) across.  (56)
Finish off leaving a long tail.
Rw 4: Skip next 14 sc, attach blue in next sc, ch 2, dc in same sc as attachment, dc in next 13 sc.  (14)
Rws 5-14: Ch 2, turn; 2 dc in next dc, dc in each dc across to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.  (34 in Row 14)
Rw 15: Ch 2, turn; dc in each dc across.  (34)
Rw 16: Ch 2, turn; 2 dc in next dc, dc in each dc across to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.  (36)
Rw 17: Ch 2, turn; dc in each dc across.  (34)
Rw 18: Ch 2, turn; 2 dc in next dc, dc in each dc across to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.  (38)
Rw 19: Ch 2, turn; dc in each dc across.  (34)
Rw 20: Ch 2, turn; 2 dc in next dc, dc in each dc across to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.  (40)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.  Place around neck, front of CAPE should overlap BREASTPLATE and SHOULDER GUARDS.  Sew in place.  Sew together Rows 1 through 3.  Finish off and weave in ends.

CAPE JEWEL:
Rd 1: With red, 6 sc in magic ring, slip st in first sc changing to yellow.  (6)
Rd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, join.  (12)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew CAPE JEWEL to CAPE.

BOOTS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With coffee brown, ch 6, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, 3 sc in next ch working around ch, working in free loops of foundation ch, sc in next 4 ch.  (12)
Rd 2: (3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) around.  (16)
Rds 3-5: sc in each sc around.  (16)
Rd 6: slip st in next 3 sc, ch 1, sc in same sc as last slip st, sc in next 3 sc, (sc2tog) 4 time, sc in next 4 sc.  (12)
NOW WORKING IN ROWS.
Rws 7-10: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 12 sc.  (12)
Rw 11: Ch 1, turn; 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc.  (14)
Rws 12-16: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (14)
Rw 17: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 6 sc, ch 1, dc in next 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next 6 sc.  (14)
Rw 18: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (14)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Place BOOT on foot and sew back seam closed.

BOOT CUFFS (MAKE 2):
Rw 1: With white, ch 15, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.  (14)
Rw 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (14)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew BOOT CUFF to top of BOOT.

SWORD SCABBARD:
Rw 1: With coffee brown, ch 18, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.  (17)
Rws 2-4: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (17)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew Row 1 and Rw 4 together.  Whipstitch around top of SWORD SCABBARD with yellow.  Use yellow to sew bottom of SWORD SCABBARD closed.  Sew SWORD SCABBARD to left side of BELT.

SWORD HILT:
Rw 1: With yellow, ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.  (7)
Rws 2-3: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (7)
Rw 4: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across, ch 10, slip st in first sc of Row 4.  (7)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew Row 1 and Row 4 of SWORD HILT together.  Sew bottom of SWORD HILT closed.  Cut wooden skewer to desired.  Paint silver.  Glue SWORD HILT to wooden skewer.  Cut to two pieces of yellow craft foam in the form of a “C”.  Glue “C”s to SWORD above SWORD HILT.

MARTH and FIRE EMBLEM are copyright Nintendo and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (April 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

LITTLE SHARK

I have recently made my wife a shark amigurumi using a pattern I found online.  She has been teasing me that I could not make a little shark to go with the large one.  I keep telling people, along with her, never give someone with a creative mind a challenge because they will always complete the challenge with success.  Here is the pattern that I came up with to complete this challenge.

MATERIALS:
Worsted Weight Yarn:  Gray, white, red and black
F crochet hook
Polyester Fiberfill
Tapestry needle

BACK:
Rd 1: With gray, 6 sc in magic ring, slip st in first sc to join.  (6)
Rd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in next sc, (sc, dc, sc) in next sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, (sc, dc, sc) in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, join.  (14)
Rd 3: Ch 1, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, join.  (22)
Rd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, (sc, dc, sc) in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, (sc, dc, sc) in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join.  (30)
Rd 5: Ch 1, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc) around, join.  (36)
Rd 6: Ch 1, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, (sc, dc, sc) in next sc, sc in next 8 sc] around, join.  (42)
Rd 7: Ch 1, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) around, join.  (52)
Rd 8: Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc3tog, (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) twice] around, join.  (40)
Rd 9: Ch 1, (sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog) around, join.  (36)
Finish off leaving a long tail.

BELLY:
Rd 1: With gray, 6 sc in magic ring, slip st in first sc to join.  (6)
Rd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in next sc, (sc, dc, sc) in next sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, (sc, dc, sc) in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, join.  (14)
Rd 3: Ch 1, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, join.  (22)
Rd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, (sc, dc, sc) in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, (sc, dc, sc) in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join.  (30)
Rd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, join.  (38)
Finish off leaving a long tail.

MOUTH:
Rd 1: With red, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.

TEETH:
Rd 1: Working in front loops only, attach white in any sc, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in same sc as attachment, [slip st in next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next sc] 11 times, slip st in next sc, slip st in first sc.
Finish off.  Weave in ends.

BODY ASSEMBLY:
Fold MOUTH in half.  Sew MOUTH to BELLY.  Sew BELLY and MOUTH to BACK stuffing BODY firmly before closing.

DORSEL FIN:
Rd 1: With gray, ch 2, 4 sc in second ch from hook working around ch.  (4)
Rd 2: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (6)
Rd 3: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (8)
Rd 4: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (10)
Rd 5: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (12)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew DORSEL FIN to BODY.

TAIL:
TOP SECTION:
Rd 1: With gray, ch 2, 4 sc in  second ch from hook working around ch.  (4)
Rd 2: sc in each sc around.  (4)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (6)
Rds 4-5: sc in each sc around.  (6)
Rd 6: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (8)
Rd 7: sc in each sc around.  (8)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew TOP TAIL SECTION to BODY.
BOTTOM SECTION:
Rd 1: With gray, ch 2, 3 sc in second ch from hook working around ch.  (3)
Rd 2: sc in each sc around.  (3)
Rd 3: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc.  (5)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew BOTTOM TAIL SECTION to BODY.

LATERAL FINS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With gray, ch 2, 4 sc in second ch from hook working around ch.  (4)
Rd 2: sc in each sc around.  (4)
Rd 3: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc.  (5)
Rd 4: sc in each sc around.  (5)
Rd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc.  (6)
Rd 6: sc in each sc around.  (6)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew LATERAL FINS to BODY.

EYES:
Using black, use French knots to embroider the EYES on LITTLE SHARK.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (September 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, o sell items made from this pattern

MINION TENNIS BALL COVER

I was making a series of tennis ball covers for some of my co-workers.  That is when I had the idea to make one that my wife would love.  As I have said in several other posts, my wife is crazy for the Minions ever since the first Despicable Me movie came and seriously intensified when Despicable Me 2 came out with purple Minions.  Her favorite color is purple.  She did not care that they were evil Minions.  Here is the pattern for the Minion tennis ball cover that I came up with.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn: Yellow, delft blue, black, white, and grey heather.
F crochet hook
Tennis ball
Tapestry needle

TENNIS BALL COVER:
Rd 1: With delft blue, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Rd 5: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (30)
Rd 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (36)
Rd 7: (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (42)
Rd 8: sc in each sc around.  (42)  Change to yellow.
Rds 9-11: sc in each sc around.  (42)
Rd 12: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (36)  Change to black.
Rd 13: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (30)  Change to yellow.
INSERT TENNIS BALL, WHILE HOLDING INPLACE, CONTINUE TO CROCHET AROUND IT.  YOU MAY NEED TO PULL YOUR FINISHED WORK TIGHTLY TO GET IT TO COVER TO COMPLETELY.
Rd 14: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 15: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (18)
Rd 16: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 17: sc2tog around.  (6)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 17, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends.

EYE:
Rd 1: With black, 8 sc in magic ring, slip st in first sc changing to white.  (8)
Rd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, slip st in first sc changing to grey heather.  (16)
Rd 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc around.  (16)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew EYE to MINION TENNIS BALL COVER.
MOUTH:
Using black, embroider mouth on TENNIS BALL COVER.

Minions, Despicable Me, Despicable Me 2 are copyright Illumination Entertainment and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (September 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it  on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

MASTER BALL

This is part of a continued series of PokeBalls.  This is a Master Ball.  Master Ball is one of many PokeBalls available in the Pokemon video games.  This Master Ball can be made two different ways.  It can be made by simply stuffing the Master Ball with Polyester Fiberfill or by inserting a tennis ball where indicated.  I made the one featured in the photo with a tennis ball inside.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn: Purple, magenta, white, and black
F crochet hook
Tennis ball or Polyester Fiberfill
Tapestry needle

MASTER BALL:
Rd 1: With white, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Rd 5: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (30)
Rd 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (36)
Rd 7: (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (42)
Rd 8: sc in each sc around.  (42)  Change to black.
Rd 9: sc in each sc around.  (42)
Rd 10: sc in each sc around.  (42)  Change to purple.
Rd 11: sc in each sc around.  (42)
Rd 12: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (36)
Rd 13: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (30)
IF INSERTING TENNIS BALL, WHILE HOLDING IN PLACE, CONTINUE TO CROCHET AROUND IT.  YOU MAY NEED TO PULL YOUR FINISHED WORK TIGHTLY TO GET IT TO COVER TO COMPLETELY.
Rd 14: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 15: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (18)
IF YOU ARE STUFFING THE DIVE BALL, THIS WOULD BE WHEN YOU WILL BE ADDING TO THE STUFFING.  CONTINUE STUFFING TO ACHIEVE DESIRED FIRMNESS.
Rd 16: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 17: sc2tog around.  (6)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 17, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends.

BUTTON:
Rd 1: With white, ch 2, 4 sc in second ch from hook working around ch, slip st in first sc changing to black.  (4)
Rd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, slip st in first sc.  (8)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew BUTTON to DIVE BALL over Rds 9 and 10.

DOMES (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With magenta, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew DOMES to MASTER BALL.

M:
Using a double strand of white, embroider an “M” on MASTER BALL using photo as guidance for placement.

Master Ball, PokeBall, Pokemon is copyright Nintendo and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (September 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it  on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

DIVE BALL

This is part of a continued series of PokeBalls.  This is a Dive Ball.  Dive Ball is one of many PokeBalls available in the Pokemon video games.  This Dive Ball can be made two different ways.  It can be made by simply stuffing the Dive Ball with Polyester Fiberfill or by inserting a tennis ball where indicated.  I made the one featured in the photo with a tennis ball inside.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn: Blue, light blue, white, and black
F crochet hook
Tennis ball or Polyester Fiberfill
Tapestry needle

DIVE BALL:
Rd 1: With blue, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around, slip st in first sc.  (24)
Rd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next sc, hdc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc, hdc in next sc, sc in next sc) around, join changing to light blue.  (30)
Rd 6: Ch 2, (2 dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st) around, join.  (36)
Rd 7: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) around, join.  (42)
Rd 8: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join changing to black.  (42)
Rd 9: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join.  (42)
Rd 10: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join changing to light blue.  (42)
Rd 11: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join.  (42)
Rd 12: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around, join.  (36)
Rd 13: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next sc, dc2tog, hdc in next sc) around, join changing to white.  (30)
INSERT TENNIS BALL, WHILE HOLDING IN PLACE, CONTINUE TO CROCHET AROUND IT.  YOU MAY NEED TO PULL YOUR FINISHED WORK TIGHTLY TO GET IT TO COVER TO COMPLETELY.
Rd 14: Ch 2, (dc2tog, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st) around, join.  (24)
Rd 15: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (18)
IF YOU ARE STUFFING THE DIVE BALL, THIS WOULD BE WHEN YOU WILL BE ADDING TO THE STUFFING.  CONTINUE STUFFING TO ACHIEVE DESIRED FIRMNESS.
Rd 16: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 17: sc2tog around.  (6)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 17, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends.

BUTTON:
Rd 1: With white, ch 2, 4 sc in second ch from hook working around ch, slip st in first sc changing to black.  (4)
Rd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, slip st in first sc.  (8)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew BUTTON to DIVE BALL over Rds 9 and 10.

TOP STRIP:
Rw 1: With light blue, ch 7, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.  (6)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew TOP STRIP to top of DIVE BALL centered over beginning magic ring.

Dive Ball, PokeBall, Pokemon is copyright Nintendo and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (September 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it  on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

ROSE SCRUNCHIE

This Rose Scrunchie was made as a companion piece to go with the Rose Headband that I made for my wife.  This Rose Scrunchie can be made in any color combination that is desired by the person that either making the Rose Scrunchie or it is being made for.

MATERIALS
Worsted weight yarn:   Hairband:  White
Rose: Red
H hook
Tapestry needle
Hair band

SCRUNCHIE:
Rd 1:   sc evenly around the hair band.  The number of sc will depend on the tension of the person’s sc.  Slip st in first sc.
Finish off.  Weave in ends.

ROSE:
ROSE BODY:
Rd 1: With yarn, ch 4, join with a slip st in first ch to form ring, (sc, ch 4) 5 times in ring, join with slip st in first sc.  (5 ch-4 loops)
Rd 2: Slip st in first ch-4 loop, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, 4 dc, ch 1, sc) in each ch-4 loop, join.  (5 pedals)
Rd 3: Working behind pedals of Rd 2, *sc around the post of sc of Rd 1, ch 4, repeat from * around, join.  (5 ch-4 loops)
Rd 4: Slip st in first ch-4 loop, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, 5 dc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-4 loop around, join with slip st in first sc. (5 pedals)
Rd 5: Working behind pedals of Rd 4, *sc around the post of sc of Rd 1, ch 5, repeat * around, join.  (5 ch-5 loops)
Rd 6: Slip st in first ch-5 loop, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, 6 dc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-5 loop around, join.  (5 pedals)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.

CENTER OF ROSE:
Join yarn around the post of any sc of Rd 1, ch 1, *sc around post, ch 5, sc in 4th ch from hook for picot, ch 2, repeat from * around, join with slip st in first sc.  (5 picots)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  The tail will be used to sew Rose to whatever they were made to accent.

This pattern is an original pattern © by Christjan Bee (September 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.