MICKEY MOUSE

A co-worker saw the picture of my Minnie Mouse.  She requested a doll of Mickey Mouse.  This is the pattern that I designed for Mickey Mouse.  Most of the pattern was a simple adaptation of the Minnie Mouse pattern.  This just expands my pattern collection of Disney characters.  I am sure that there will be more to come in the future.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn:  Black, white, yellow, red, and buff.
E crochet hook
Polyester fiberfill
Black, red, and white craft felt
Glue
Tapestry needle

LEGS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With perfect pink,  sc in magic ring.  (9)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (18)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times, (sc, dc) in next sc, (dc, sc) in next sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times.  (28)
Rd 4: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc.  (30)
Rd 5: sc in each sc around.  (30)
Rd 6: sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc.  (28)
Rd 7: sc in next 10 sc, (sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next 10 sc.  (24)
Rd 8: sc in next 8 sc, (sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next 8 sc.  (20)
Rd 9: sc in next 6 sc, (sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next 6 sc.  (16)
Rd 10: sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, (sc2tg) twice, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog.  (12)  Change to black.
BEGIN STUFFING FIRMLY LEGS AT THIS POINT.  CONTINUE STUFFING FIRMLY AS YOU GO ALONG.
Rds 11-20: sc in each sc around.  (12)
LEFT LEG:
Rd 21: sc in each sc around placing a marker around st #8.
RIGHT LEG:
Rd 21: sc in each sc around placing a marker around st #3.
Finish off.

ARMS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With black, ch 2, 5 sc in second ch from hook working around ch.  (5)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (10)
Rds 3-19: sc in each sc around.  (10)
STUFF ARMS FIRMLY AT THIS POINT.
Finish off.

BODY:
WILL USE RDS 2-5 TO CONNECT THE LEGS AND RDS 19-21 TO CONNECT THE ARMS.
Rd 1: With black, 9 sc in magic ring.  (9)
Rd 2: 2 sc in next 2 sc, holding RIGHT LEG and BODY with right sides together, matching marked sc on RIGHT LEG with next sc on BODY and working through both thicknesses, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sc of BODY, holding LEFT LEG and BODY with right sides together, matching marked sc on LEFT LEG with next sc on BODY and working through both thicknesses, sc in next 2 sc.  (14)
Rd 3: 2 sc in next 4 sc, sc in next skipped sc on RIGHT LEG, working in sc behind same leg, sc in next sc, ch 1, sc in next sc, skip next 8 sc of same leg, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next 6 sc of BODY, sc in next unworked sc on LEFT LEG, working in sc behind same leg, sc in next sc, ch 1, sc in next sc, skip next 8 sc of same leg, sc in next sc.
Rd 4: sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next skipped sc of RIGHT LEG, working in sc behind RIGHT LEG, sc in next sc, ch 2, sc in next sc, skip next 6 sc on same leg, sc in next sc, sc2tog on BODY, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in next skipped sc on LEFT LEG, working in sc behind LEFT LEG, sc in next sc, ch 2, sc in next sc, skip next 6 sc on same leg, sc in next sc, sc in next sc on BODY.
Rd 5: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc of RIGHT LEG, sc in next 2 sc on BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc of LEFFT LEG, sc in next 2 sc on BODY.  (36)
Rds 6-13: sc in each sc around.  (36)
Rd 14: sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 24 sc.  (35)
Rd 15: sc in next 19 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sc.  (34)
Rd 16: sc in next 30 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc.  (33)
Rd 17: sc in next 23 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc.  (32)
Rd 18: sc in next 15 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 15 sc.  (31)
Rd 19: holding LEFT ARM and BODY with right sides together, matching marked sc in LEFT ARM and next sc on BODY and working through both thicknesses, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 5 sc of BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, holding RIGHT ARM and BODY with right sides together, matching marked sc in RIGHT ARM and next sc on BODY and working through both thicknesses, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 5 sc of BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, holding LEFT ARM and BODY with right sides together, matching sc before marked sc on LEFT ARM and next sc on BODY and working through both thicknesses, sc in next sc, slip st in next 3 sc.  IF DONE RIGHT YOU SHOULD END 3 SC AFTER BEGINNING SC.
Rd 20: sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next skipped sc on RIGHT ARM, working in behind same arm, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, skip next 4 sc on same arm, sc in next sc on same arm, sc in next 4  sc on BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next unworked sc on LEFT ARM, working in behind same arm, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, skip next 4 sc on same arm, sc in next sc on same arm.
Rd 21: sc in next 4 sc on BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc on RIGHT ARM, sc in next 5 sc on BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next 4 sc on LEFT LEG, sc in next sc on BODY.  (28)
Rd 22: (sc in next 13 sc, sc2tog) around.  (27)
Rd 23: sc in each sc around.  (27)
STUFF BODY FIRMLY AT THIS POINT.  CONTINUE STUFFING BODY FIRMLY AS YOU GO ALONG.
Rd 24: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times.  (31)
Rd 25: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times.  (36)
Rds 26-33: sc in each sc around.  (36)
Rd 34: (sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog) around.  (32)
Rd 35: (sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog) around.  (28)
Rd 36: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 37: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (20)
Rd 38: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (16)
Rd 39: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 40: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (8)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.

HANDS (MAKE 2):
FINGERS (MAKE 6):
Rd 1: With white, ch 2, 4 sc in second ch from hook working around ch.  (4)
Rds 2-3: sc in each sc around.  (4)
Finish off after Rd 3 only on the first four fingers.
For fingers 5 and 6, continue with hand.
Rd 4: sc in next 2 sc on finger 5 or 6, sc in next 2 sc on next finger, sc in each sc of next finger, sc in next sc of second finger, sc in next 2 sc of first finger.  (12)
Rds 5-7: sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 8: Ch 4, sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 9: sc in each sc and ch around.  (16)
Rd 10: skip next 4 sc, sc in next 12 sc.  (12)
Rd 11: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Finish off leaving a long tail to sew to ARM.

EARS (MAKE 2):
INNER EARS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With black, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
OUTER EARS (MAKE 2 ):
Rd 1: With black, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: Working through both thicknesses of INNER EAR and OUTER EAR, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew EARS to head of BODY.  Weave in ends.

SHORTS:
Rd 1: With red, 9 sc in magic ring.  (9)
Rd 2: 2 sc in next 3 sc, ch 15, skip next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, ch 15, skip next sc, slip st in first sc.  (12, 2 15-ch spaces)
Rd 3: ch 1, sc in each sc and ch around.  (42)
Rds 4-7: sc in each sc around. (42)
Rd 8: sc in next 20 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 20 sc.  (41)
Rd 9: sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 29 sc.  (40)
Rd 10: sc in next 29 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc.  (39)
Rd 11: sc in next 19 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc.  (38)
Rd 12: sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 26 sc.  (37)
Rd 13: sc in next 26 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc.  (36)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.

SHORT LEGS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: Attach red with slip st in skipped sc of Rd 1, ch 1, sc in same sc as slip st, sc in side of Rd 2, sc in next 15 ch, sc in side of Rd 2, join with slip st in first sc.  (18)
Rds 2-4: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with slip st in first sc.  (18)

BUTTONS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With white, 5 sc in magic ring.  (5)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew BUTTONS to front of SHORTS.
Slip SHORTS on BODY of MICKEY.  Advisement:  This is not going to be easy since the FEET will be bigger than the SHORT LEGHOLES.

TAIL:
With black, ch 20, attach to back of SHORTS.

FACE:
Rw 1: With buff, ch 11, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch, 2 sc in next ch.  (12)
Rw 2: Ch 1, turn; 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc.  (14)
Rw 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (14)
Rw 4: Ch 1, turn; (sc2tog) twice, sc in next 8 sc, (sc2tog) twice.  (10)
Rw 5: Ch 1, turn; sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog.  (8)
Rw 6: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (8)
Rw 7: Ch 1, turn; 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc.  (10)
Rws 8-11: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across.  (10)
Rw 12: Turn; slip st next sc, skip next sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip next sc, slip st in next 2 sc, skip next sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip next sc, slip st in next sc.
Finish off leaving a long tail to sew FACE to head.

MUZZLE:
Rd 1: With buff, ch 2, 4 sc in second from hook working around ch.  (4)
Rd 2: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (6)
Rd 3: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (8)
Finish off leaving a long tail to sew NOSE to FACE.

NOSE:
Rd 1: With black, ch 2, 4 sc in second from hook working around ch.  (4)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew NOSE to tip of MUZZLE.

EYES AND MOUTH:
Use craft felt to create EYES and MOUTH.  Glue EYES and MOUTH on FACE.

Mickey Mouse is copyright Walt Disney Co. and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (March 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

POKEBALL TENNIS BALL COVER

I made a series of ball covers designed to look like the belly of various Care Bears.  While making the Care Bear Balls, my wife asked me to make her a Pokeball tennis ball cover.  Here is the pattern for the Pokeball tennis ball cover that I came up with.

MATERIALS:
Worst weight yarn:  White, red, and black.
F crochet hook
Tennis ball
Tapestry needle

BUTTON:
Rd 1: With white, ch 2, 4 sc in second ch from hook working around ch, join with slip st in first sc changing to black. (4)
Rd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, join with slip st in first sc.  (8)
Finish off leaving a long tail.

BALL COVER:
Rd 1: With white, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Rd 5: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (30)
Rd 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (36)
Rd 7: (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (42)
Rd 8: sc in each sc around.  (42)  Change to black.
Rds 9-10: sc in each sc around.  (42)  Change to red.
Rd 11: sc in each sc around.  (42)
Rd 12: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (36)
Rd 13: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (30)
THIS WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO SEW ON THE BUTTON.
INSERT TENNIS BALL, WHILE HOLDING IN PLACE, CONTINUE TO CROCHET AROUND IT.  YOU MAY NEED TO PULL YOUR FINISHED WORK TIGHTLY TO GET IT TO COVER TO COMPLETELY.
Rd 14: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 15: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (18)
Rd 16: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 17: sc2tog around.  (6)
Finishing off leaving a long tail.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 17, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends.

Pokeball and Pokemon is copyright Nintendo, Inc. and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (March 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/ repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

CARE BEAR BEDTIME BEAR BALL COVER

I had made a ball cover to go along with a bowling set for a co-worker.  I also have a Good Luck Care Bear sitting on my desk at work.  Another co-worker asked if there was any way to combine the two together.  Since am sure I could make just about anything, I said sure.  Here is the pattern for the ball cover fashioned after Bedtime Care Bear.  Others to follow.

MATERIALS:
Worst weight yarn:  White and turqua
F crochet hook
Tennis ball
Tapestry needle
18-inch aida cloth
Embroidery floss
Embroidery needle

BELLY BADGE:
Use aida cloth and embroidery floss in DMC color(s) listed below to create BELLY BADGE using graph below.

BALL COVER:
Rd 1: With white, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Rd 5: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (30)  Change to turqua.
Rd 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (36)
Rd 7: (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (42)
Rds 8-11: sc in each sc around.  (42)
THIS WOULD BE GOOD TIME TO SEW ON BELLY BADGE.
Rd 12: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (36)
Rd 13: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (30)
INSERT TENNIS BALL, WHILE HOLDING IN PLACE, CONTINUE TO CROCHET AROUND IT.  YOU MAY NEED TO PULL YOUR FINISHED WORK TIGHTLY TO GET IT TO COVER TO COMPLETELY.
Rd 14: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 15: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (18)
Rd 16: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 17: sc2tog around.  (6)
Finishing off leaving a long tail.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 17, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends.

Bedtime Bear and Care Bears is copyright American Greetings Corporation, LLC and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (March 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/ repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

CARE BEAR FUNSHINE BEAR BALL COVER

I had made a ball cover to go along with a bowling set for a co-worker.  I also have a Good Luck Care Bear sitting on my desk at work.  Another co-worker asked if there was any way to combine the two together.  Since am sure I could make just about anything, I said sure.  Here is the pattern for the ball cover fashioned after Funshine Care Bear.  Others to follow.

MATERIALS:
Worst weight yarn:  White and bright yellow
F crochet hook
Tennis ball
Tapestry needle
18-inch aida cloth
Embroidery floss
Embroidery needle

BELLY BADGE:
Use aida cloth and embroidery floss in DMC color(s) listed below to create BELLY BADGE using graph below.

BALL COVER:
Rd 1: With white, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Rd 5: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (30)  Change to bright yellow.
Rd 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (36)
Rd 7: (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (42)
Rds 8-11: sc in each sc around.  (42)
THIS WOULD BE GOOD TIME TO SEW ON BELLY BADGE.
Rd 12: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (36)
Rd 13: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (30)
INSERT TENNIS BALL, WHILE HOLDING IN PLACE, CONTINUE TO CROCHET AROUND IT.  YOU MAY NEED TO PULL YOUR FINISHED WORK TIGHTLY TO GET IT TO COVER TO COMPLETELY.
Rd 14: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 15: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (18)
Rd 16: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 17: sc2tog around.  (6)
Finishing off leaving a long tail.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 17, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends.

Funshine Bear and Care Bears is copyright American Greetings Corporation, LLC and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (March 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/ repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

CARE BEAR LOVE-A-LOT BEAR BALL COVER

I had made a ball cover to go along with a bowling set for a co-worker.  I also have a Good Luck Care Bear sitting on my desk at work.  Another co-worker asked if there was any way to combine the two together.  Since am sure I could make just about anything, I said sure.  Here is the pattern for the ball cover fashioned after Love-a-lot Care Bear.  Others to follow.

MATERIALS:
Worst weight yarn:  White and magenta
F crochet hook
Tennis ball
Tapestry needle
18-inch aida cloth
Embroidery floss
Embroidery needle

BELLY BADGE:
Use aida cloth and embroidery floss in DMC color(s) listed below to create BELLY BADGE using graph below.

BALL COVER:
Rd 1: With white, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Rd 5: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (30)  Change to magenta.
Rd 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (36)
Rd 7: (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (42)
Rds 8-11: sc in each sc around.  (42)
THIS WOULD BE GOOD TIME TO SEW ON BELLY BADGE.
Rd 12: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (36)
Rd 13: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (30)
INSERT TENNIS BALL, WHILE HOLDING IN PLACE, CONTINUE TO CROCHET AROUND IT.  YOU MAY NEED TO PULL YOUR FINISHED WORK TIGHTLY TO GET IT TO COVER TO COMPLETELY.
Rd 14: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 15: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (18)
Rd 16: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 17: sc2tog around.  (6)
Finishing off leaving a long tail.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 17, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends.

Love-a-lot Bear and Care Bears is copyright American Greetings Corporation, LLC and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (March 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/ repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

CARE BEAR GOOD LUCK BEAR BALL COVER

I had made a ball cover to go along with a bowling set for a co-worker.  I also have a Care Bear Good Luck Bear sitting on my desk at work.  Another co-worker asked if I could make tennis ball covers that had the belly logos of Care Bears on them.  Since I am sure that I could make anything, I said sure.  Here is the pattern for the ball cover fashioned after Good Luck Care Bear.  Others to follow.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn:  White and spring green
F crochet hook
Tennis ball
Tapestry needle
18-inch aida cloth
Dk. Green embroidery floss
Embroidery needle

CLOVER:
Use aida cloth and dk. green embroidery floss to create CLOVER using graph below.

BALL COVER:
Rd 1: With white, 6 sc in magic ring.  (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (18)
Rd 4: (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (24)
Rd 5: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (30)  Change to spring green.
Rd 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (36)
Rd 7: (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (42)
Rds 8-11: sc in each sc around.  (42)
THIS WOULD BE A GOOD POINT TO SEW ON CLOVER.
Rd 12: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (36)
Rd 13: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (30)
INSERT TENNIS BALL, WHILE HOLDING INPLACE, CONTINUE TO CROCHET AROUND IT.  YOU MAY NEED TO PULL YOUR FINISHED WORK TIGHTLY TO GET IT TO COVER TO COMPLETELY.
Rd 14: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 15: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (18)
Rd 16: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 17: sc2tog around.  (6)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 17, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends.

Good Luck Bear and Care Bears is copyright American Greetings Corporation, LLC and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (March 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it  on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

DECORATIVE BIRDCAGE

A co-worker of mine found a beautiful birdcage ornament that looked like one that her former sister-in-law made her at one time but lost.  She asked me if I could make one similar but larger.  Here is the pattern for the one that I made her.  I used lavender color for the desired color in ribbon because that was my co-worker’s favorite color.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn:  White.
B crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Aleene’s® Stiffen Quik
Plastic Wrap
Rush-proof straight pins
Metal 3” dia.-based can
1 (4” dia.) Styrofoam half-ball left in plastic wrapping
4 yds of 1/8” white ribbon
2 yds of 1/8” desired color (I used lavender) ribbon
1 yd of 5/8” ribbon matching desired color
2 miniature birds
2 miniature flowers
3 sets of 2 miniature leaves
Glue
Chenille stems (optional)

DOUBLE TREBLE (dtr):
YO 4 times, insert hook in next st, YO, pull up loop, (YO, pull through 2 loops) 5 times.

DOME TOP:
Rd 1: With white, 25 dc in magic ring, slip st in first dc.  (25)
Rd 2: Ch 2, (dc in next 5 dc, ch 3) around, join with slip st in first dc.
Rd 3: Ch 2, (dc2tog, dc in next dc, dc2tog, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 3) around, join with slip in first dc.
Rd 4: Ch 2, (dc3tog, ch 3, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next dc, ch 3) around, join with slip st in first dc.
Rd 5: slip st to first next dc, ch 2, (2 dc in next dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next dc3tog) around, join with slip st in first dc.
Rd 6: slip st to between next 2 dc cluster, ch 2, 2 dc in space between 2 dc, ch 2, (2 dc in space between next 2 dc cluster, ch 2) around, join with slip st in first dc.
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Place DOME TOP on Styrofoam half-ball.  Spray with stiffener without get any on long tail.  Let set at least 24 hours to dry.

CAGE:
SUGGESTION BUT OPTIONAL:  DO EVERY OTHER DTR OF RDS 9 THRU 11 AROUND A PIECE OF CHENILLE STEM TO ADD STABILITY.
Rd 1: With white, 8 dc in magic ring, join with slip st in first dc.  (8)
Rd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around, join with slip st in first dc.  (16)
Rd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around, join with slip st in first dc.  (32)
Rd 4: Ch 2, (dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) around, join with slip st in first dc.  (48)
Rd 5: Ch 2, (dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc) around, join with slip st in first dc.  (64)
Rd 6: Working in back loops only, ch 1, sc in each dc around, join with slip st in first sc.  (64)
Rd 7: Ch 2, dc in same sc as ch-2, (ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 3 sc) 15 times, ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc, join with slip st in first dc.
Rd 8: slip st to next ch-1 space, ch 2, dc in same ch-1 space, (ch 3, skip next 3 dc, dc in next ch-1 space) 15 times, ch 3, skip next 3 dc, join with slip st in first dc.
Rd 9: Ch 11 (Counts as first dtr and ch 3 here and throughout), (dtr in next dc, ch 3) around, join with slip st in 8th ch of beg ch.
Rd 10: Ch 11, (dtr in next dtr, ch 3) 5 times, dtr in next dtr, ch 20, skip next 4 dtr, (dtr in next dtr, ch 3) 5 times, join with slip st in 8th ch from hook.
Rd 11: Ch 11, (dtr in next dtr, ch 3) 5times, dtr in next dtr, ch 3, (skip next 3 ch, dtr in next ch, ch 3) 4 times, skip next 3 ch, (dtr in next dtr, ch 3) 5 times, join with slip st in 8th ch of beg ch.
Finish off.  Weave in ends.  Wrap metal 3” dia..-based can in plaster wrap.  Wrap CAGE around plastic-wrapped can using straight pins to keep up.  Strap with stiffener.  Set aside to allow stiffener to dry for 24 hours.

BOTTOM:
Rd 1: With white, 8 dc in magic ring, join with slip st in first dc.  (8)
Rd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around, join with slip st in first dc.  (16)
Rd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around, join with slip st in first dc.  (32)
Rd 4: Ch 2, (dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) around, join with slip st in first dc.  (48)
Rd 5: Ch 2, (dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc) around, join with slip st in first dc.  (64)
Rd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next dc, skip next dc, 5 dc in next dc, skip next dc) around, join with slip st in first sc.
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Lay BOTTOM on flat piece of plastic wrap.  Without getting any stiffener on long tail, strap BOTTOM.  Set aside to allow to dry for 24 hours.

ASSEMBLY:
Once pieces have completely dried and are at desired stiffness, this may take more than one coats of stray stiffener, slowly remove from plaster wrapped support items.
Using white 1/8” ribbon and tapestry needle, feed ribbon through Rd 1 of DOME TOP.  Tie both ends together first at dome and then again about 3 inches above first knot.
Using an equal piece of white and desired color ribbon, tie bow just below first of knot of hanger.  Use a little glue to secure center knot.6

Glue 5/8” desired color ribbon over Rd 8 of CAGE.

Sew BOTTOM to bottom of CAGE.  Using sc, evenly sc Rd 6 of DOME TOP and Rd 11 of CAGE together.  Finish off and weave in ends.

Once Decorative Birdcage is fully assembled, but before gluing birds, leaves, and flowers on, I suggest hanging Birdcage from something and stray with stiffener again and allow to let completely dry.

Glue birds, leaves, and flowers at various places on DECORATIVE BIRDCAGE.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (March 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

SEATTLE SEAHAWKS BLITZ

Blitz is the official mascot for the Seattle Seahawks.  This was a request from a co-worker.  I would like to say that making him was easy, but I would be lying.  He was not easy.  There are other official mascots that I have been requested to make.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn:  Navy blue, spring green, white, and gray.
E crochet hook
Polyester fiberfill
Tapestry needle
White, spring green, and black craft felt
Glue

ARMS (MAKE 2):
Rd 1: With spring green, ch 5, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in next ch working around ch, working free loops of foundation ch, sc in next 3 ch.  (10)
Rds 2-3: sc in each sc around.  (10)  Change to white.
Rds 4-5: sc in each sc around.  (10)  Change to navy blue.
Rd 6: 3 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc.  (16)
Rd 7: sc in each sc around.  (16)
Rd 8: (sc2tog) 4 times, sc in next 6 sc.  (10)
Rds 9-21: sc in each sc around.  (10
RIGHT ARM:
Rd 22: sc in each sc around placing a marker around sc #1.  (10)
LEFT ARM:
Rd 22: sc in each sc around placing a marker around sc #5.  (10)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.  Stuff ARMS firmly.

RIGHT LEG:
Rd 1: With white, ch 10, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, dc in next 2 ch, 4 dc in next ch working around ch, working in free loops of foundation ch, dc in next 2 ch, sc in next 5 ch, 2 sc in next ch.  (22)
Rd 2: 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next 4 dc, dc in next 2 dc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc.  (32)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 5 sc, 2 dc in next 12 dc, sc in next 5 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice.  (46)
Rd 4: working in back loops only, sc in each sc around.  (46)
Rd 5: sc in each sc around.  (46)
Rd 6: sc in next 11 sc, (sc2tog) 12 times, sc in next 11 sc.  (34)
Rd 7: sc in next 5 sc, (sc2tog) 12 times, sc in next 5 sc.  (22)
Rd 8: sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, (dc3tog) 4 times, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog.  (12)
Rds 9-16: sc in each sc around.  (12)  Change to navy blue.
Rd 17: LEG FEATHERS:  Working in front loops only, attach spring green with slip st in next sc, (ch 4, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, skip next sc on Rd 16, slip st in next sc) 6 times.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.
LEG:  Working in back loops only in sc of Rd 16 where slip st is done with LEG FEATHERS and both loops  in skipped sc of Rd 16, sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 18: sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 19: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc.  (13)
Rds 20-21: sc in each sc around.  (13)
Rd 22: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc.  (14)
Rds 23-24: sc in each sc around.  (14)
Rd 25: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc.  (15)
Finish off.  Stuff RIGHT LEG firmly.

LEFT LEG AND BODY:
Rd 1: With white, ch 10, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, dc in next 2 ch, 4 dc in next ch working around ch, working in free loops of foundation ch, dc in next 2 ch, sc in next 5 ch, 2 sc in next ch.  (22)
Rd 2: 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next 4 dc, dc in next 2 dc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc.  (32)
Rd 3: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 5 sc, 2 dc in next 12 dc, sc in next 5 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice.  (46)
Rd 4: working in back loops only, sc in each sc around.  (46)
Rd 5: sc in each sc around.  (46)
Rd 6: sc in next 11 sc, (sc2tog) 12 times, sc in next 11 sc.  (34)
Rd 7: sc in next 5 sc, (sc2tog) 12 times, sc in next 5 sc.  (22)
Rd 8: sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, (dc3tog) 4 times, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog.  (12)
Rds 9-16: sc in each sc around.  (12)  Change to navy blue.
Rd 17: LEG FEATHERS:  Working in front loops only, attach spring green with slip st in next sc, (ch 4, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, skip next sc on Rd 16, slip st in next sc) 6 times.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.
LEG:  Working in back loops only in sc of Rd 16 where slip st is done with LEG FEATHERS and both loops  in skipped sc of Rd 16, sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 18: sc in each sc around.  (12)
Rd 19: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc.  (13)
Rds 20-21: sc in each sc around.  (13)
Rd 22: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc.  (14)
Rds 23-24: sc in each sc around.  (14)
Rd 25: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc.  (15)
DO NOT FINISH OFF.
Rd 26: Ch 3, slip in RIGHT LEG, ch 1, sc in same sc as slip st, sc in next 14 sc, sc in next 3 ch, sc in each sc of LEFT LEG, working in free loops of ch-3, sc in next 3 ch.  (36)
Rds 27-29: sc in each sc around.  (36)
Rd 30: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (30)
Rd 31-32: sc in each sc around.  (30)
Rd 33: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rds 34-35: sc in each sc around.  (24)
Rd 36: (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (30)
Rd 37: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (36)
Rd 38: sc in each sc around.  (36)
Rd 39: sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 24 sc.  (35)
Rd 38: sc in next 19 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sc.  (34)
Rd 39: sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 30 sc.  (33)
Rd 40: sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 23 sc.  (32)
Rd 41: sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc.  (31)
Rd 42: sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, holding RIGHT ARM and BODY right sides together matching marked sc on RIGHT ARM and next sc on BODY, working through both thicknesses, sc in next 4 sc, leaving remaining 6 sc on RIGHT ARM unworked, sc in next 5 sc on BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, holding LEFT ARM and BODY right sides together matching marked sc on LEFT ARM and next sc on BODY, working through both thicknesses, sc in next 4 sc, leaving remaining 6 sc on LEFT ARM unworked, sc in next 2 sc on BODY.
Rd 43: sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next skipped sc on RIGHT ARM, working in sc behind same arm, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, skip next 4 sc on same arm, sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc on BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next skipped sc on LEFT ARM, working in sc behind same arm, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, skip next 4 sc on same arm, sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc on BODY.
Rd 44: sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc on RIGHT ARM, sc in next 4 sc on BODY, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 4 sc on LEFT ARM, sc in next sc on BODY, sc2tog.  (28)
BEGIN STUFFING BODY FIRMLY.  CONTINUE STUFFING BODY AS YOU GO.
Rd 45: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 46: (sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) around.  (20)  Change to gray.
Rd 47: NECK FEATHERS:  working in front loops only, attach gray with slip st, (ch 3, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, skip next sc on Rd 46, slip st in next sc on Rd 46) 10 times.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.
NECK:  Working in back loops only of same sc as slip st of NECK FEATHERS and both loops of skipped sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around.  (30)
Rd 48: slip st in next sc, ch 1, sc in same sc as slip st, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, change to navy blue, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times, join with slip st in first sc.  (36)
Rd 49: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 26 sc, change to gray, sc in next 10 sc, join.  (36)
Rd 50: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 10 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 26 sc, join.  (36)
Rd 51: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 26 sc, change to gray, sc in next 10 sc, join.  (36)
Rd 52: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 10 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 26 sc, join.  (36)
Rds 53-56: sc in each sc around.  (36)
Rd 57: (sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog) around.  (32)
Rd 58: (sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog) around.  (28)
Rd 59: (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) around.  (24)
Rd 60: (sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) around.  (20)
Rd 61: (sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) around.  (16)
Rd 62: (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) around.  (12)
Rd 63: (sc in next sc, sc2tog) around.  (8)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Add any stuffing needed to finish off shape.  Weave tail through sc of Rd 40, pull tightly, and secure.  Weave in ends.

FOOT SHAPING:
To shape toes, thread yarn needle with cut ends of a doubled strand of BODY color yarn.  Using photo as a guide for stitch placement, insert needle through sole at first toe position and go straight through foot and out instep, pulling yarn through until loop protrudes from foot.  Bring yarn over top of foot to form toes and insert needle through loop; pull tightly.  Insert needle back through foot on outside of loop to secure and bring needle out at second toe on sole.  Bring thread over foot and insert needle through instep and go straight through foot and out sole at same point; pull tightly.  Take a couple of very small stitches to secure; insert needle inside the foot and push it out the bottom so the yarn does not show; cut the end close to the foot.  Use top of needle to pull stuffing into toe areas and shape foot.

TOENAILS:
Embroider TOENAILS on each toe of feet.

WHITE BEARD:
Rw 1: Following along gray on head of BODY, attach white at right ear, ch 1, sc in next 2 rows, slip st in next row, sc in next row, sc in next 24 sc, sc in next row, slip st in next row, sc in next 2 rows, slip st in same row of last sc.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.

WHITE SIDEBURNS:
Right sideburn:
Rw 1: Starting 2 rows above starting point of WHITE BEARD, attach white, ch 1, sc in next 2 rows, sc in next row 1 sc in front of WHITE BEARD, sc in next row 2 sc in front of WHITE BEARD.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.
Left sideburn:
Rw 1: Starting 2 sc in front of next to last sc of WHITE BEARD, attach white, ch 1, sc in same sc as attachment, sc in next row 1 sc in front of WHITE BEARD, sc in next 2 rows directly above the end of the WHITE BEARD.  Finish off.  Weave in ends.

BEAK:
Rd 1: With gray, ch 2, 4 sc in second ch from hook.  (4)
Rd 2: 2 hdc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc.  (8)
Rd 3: sc in next sc, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts.  (10)
Rd 4: sc in next sc, 2 hdc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc.  (12)
Rd 5: sc in next sc, 2 hdc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 2 hdc in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc.  (18)
Rd 6: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc.  (22)
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew BEAK to face of BODY adding stuffing before closing.

NOSTRILS AND MOUTH:
Using navy blue yarn, backstitch nostrils and mouth onto BEAK.

JERSEY:
Rw 1: With navy blue, ch 40, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.  (39)  Change to white.
Rw 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 2 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 15 sc, change to white, sc in next 5 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 15 sc, change to white, sc in next 2 sc.  (39)  Change to navy blue.
Rws 3-5: Ch 1, turn; sc in next sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 15, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 3 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 15 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc.  (39)
Rw 6: Ch 1, turn; sc in next sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 3 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 15 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc.  (38)
Rw 7: Ch 1, turn; sc in next sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 3 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 14 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc.  (37)
Rw 8: Ch 1, turn; sc in next sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 3 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 14 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc.  (36)
Rw 9: Ch 1, turn; sc in next sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 3 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 13 sc, change to white, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc.  (35)  Change to white.
Rw 10: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 2 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 13 sc, change to white, sc in next 5 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 13 sc, change to white, sc in next 2 sc.  (35)
Finish off.
LEFT SIDE:
Rw 11: Skip next 29 sc, attach navy blue with slip st in next sc, ch 1, sc in same sc as slip st, sc in next 5 sc.  (6)
Rw 12: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 6 sc.  (6)
Finish off.
CENTER:
Rw 11: With wrong side facing, skip next 5 sc, attach navy blue in next sc, ch 1, sc in together the same sc as slip st and next sc, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog.  (11)
RIGHT SIDE:
Rw 11: With right side facing, attach navy blue in first sc of Rw 10 with slip st, ch 1, sc in same sc as slip st, sc in next 5 sc.  (6)
Rw 12: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 6 sc.  (6)
Rw 13: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 6 sc, ch 4, change to gray, ch 1, sc in next 4 sc of CENTER, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, slip st in next sc, sc in next sc, change to gray, sc in next 4 sc, change to navy blue, ch 5, sc in next 6 sc of LEFT SIDE.
Rw 13: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 5 ch, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, slip st in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 ch, sc in next 6 sc.  (31)
Finish off leaving a long tail.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Rd 1: Starting in the middle skipped sc of armhole, attach navy blue with slip st, ch 1, sc in same sc as slip st, sc in next 2 sc, sc in side of next 3 rows, change to spring green, sc in each free loops of ch-5, change to navy blue, sc in side of next row, change to gray, sc in side of next row, change to navy blue, sc in next 2 sc of underarm, join with slip st in first sc.  (15)
Rd 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 2 sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to spring green, sc in next 5 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 6 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 6 sc, change to spring green, sc in next 5 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 2 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 4: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 3 sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to spring green, sc in next 3 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 7 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 5: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 7 sc, change to spring green, sc in next 3 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 3 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 6: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 3 sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to spring green, sc in next 3 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 7 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 7: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 8 sc, change to spring green, sc in next 1 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 4 sc, join.  (15)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Rd 1: Starting in the middle skipped sc of armhole, attach navy blue with slip st, ch 1, sc in same sc as slip st, sc in next 2 sc, change to gray, sc in side of next row, change to navy blue, sc in side of next row, change to spring green, sc in each free of ch-5, change to navy blue, sc in side of next 3 rows, sc in next 2 sc of underarm, join with slip st in first sc.  (15)
Rd 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 5 sc, change to spring green, sc in next 5 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 3 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 3 sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to spring green, sc in next 5 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 5 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 4: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 5 sc, change to spring green, sc in next 5 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 3 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 5: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 4 sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to spring green, sc in next 3 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 6 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 6: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 6 sc, change to spring green, sc in next 3 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 4 sc, join.  (15)
Rd 7: Ch 1, turn; sc in next 5 sc, change to gray, sc in next sc, change to navy blue, sc in next sc, change to spring green, sc in next 1 sc, change to navy blue, sc in next 7 sc, join.  (15)
Finish off.  Weave in ends.
Place JERSEY on BODY.  Using tail, sew back seam closed.  With white, connect both sides of back 0 together.  Embroider “BLITZ” on back of JERSEY centered above back 0.

ARM FEATHERS (MAKE 2):
Rw 1: With navy blue, ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next 5 ch, (ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, working over ch and in hdc of previous feather, hdc in next 4 hdc) 4 times.
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Sew ARM FEATHERS on ARMS.  Cut 5 accent feathers for each ARM FEATHERS from spring green craft felt.  Glue spring green accent feathers to ARM FEATHERS.

TAIL:
Rw 1: With navy blue, ch 12, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 7 ch, ch 17, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 10 ch, working over ch and in dc of previous feather of TAIL, dc in next 4 dc, ch 12, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 3 dc, working over ch and in dc of previous feather of TAIL, dc in next 4 dc.
Finish off leaving a long tail.  Cut spring green accent feathers from spring green craft felt.  Glue spring green accent feathers to TAIL.  Sew TAIL to BODY  just below the back of JERSEY.

EYES AND EYEBROWS (MAKE 2 EACH):
Using white, spring green and black craft felt, cut pieces of eyes and construct eyes.  Cut EYEBROWS from white craft felt.  Glue EYES and EYEBROWS to head of BODY.  Use photo for placement.

Seattle Seahawks’ Blitz are copyright Seattle Seahawks and National Football League and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Christjan Bee (March 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.